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Religion, politics, passion, history, social injustice
and a standing army are not the ideal ingredients for a 'get away from it all' holiday. But these are the things that draw thousands of visitors (and thousands
of emigrants) to Israel every year. This is 'where it happened', a land that grips at the imagination of every Christian, Jew and Muslim in the world, and
inflames a fair few of them to hatred and violence. It's the intangibles of Israel - standing in the footsteps of gods, breathing the air of the messiah - that
bring people here, and it's the very intangibility of them that leaves so many visitors disappointed. Anyone expecting profound moments of epiphany brought on
by immersion in the refined air of the holy land is in for a shock. Israel is a bustling, smelly, noisy, modern country, just as capable of squeezing a
tacky tourist buck out of the sacred as any US bible-belt town.
If you come to Israel without preconceptions, you are far more likely
to leave with happy memories. Sure, Israel's history and religious links are vital parts of its appeal, but they are not the be-all and end-all. Take time to
visit the brand new, cosmopolitan city of Tel Aviv, dive the Red Sea at Eilat, explore some of the country's thriving national parks and float for hours in the
salty stillness of the Dead Sea. If you want to understand Israel, take the time to look beyond the larger-than-life figures of the past and have a chat to
your bus driver or hostel owner.
Warning
Peace in Israel is always fragile, particularly in the occupied territories: the Gaza Strip, the Golan and the West Bank. Although fighting is usually
contained to a small area and rarely affects tourists, keep an eye on the news before you travel and check with your embassy if things look scary.
Environment
Smaller than Belgium, New Jersey or Tasmania, Israel is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Lebanon and Syria to the north,
Jordan to the east and Egypt to the south. The dominant geographic feature is the Rift Valley, which runs from Turkey, through Israel and down into Africa. It
contains the Dead Sea, as well as the Jordan, Arava and Hula valleys and Lake Galilee. Israel is not a wet country (the Jordan is its only main river), and
only the north sustains agriculture. The country's main body of water, the Dead Sea, is incredibly salty, as well as being the lowest place on the planet. It's
flanked by the Judean Desert, which further south becomes the Negev.
Three geographic zones converge in Israel, and as a result you'll find
a wealth of wildlife. Northern Israel is wet and mountainous, and supports laurel forests and streams filled with otters. The south of the country is desert,
with wild tulips, irises and date palms. Israel is also the second largest flyway for migratory birds, with species from all over the world swapping
hemispheres here. A fifth of the country is national parks - around 300 of them - and the Israelis are renowned for having turned the desert into a garden, as
well as having reintroduced a number of species which have become locally extinct since Biblical times. For information on national parks and environmental
issues, contact the Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel.
It's hard to pin down the Israeli climate - while it's snowing in
Jerusalem it may well be 23 degrees Celsius by the Dead Sea. Generally speaking, however, Israel is temperate and has two main seasons - winter and summer.
Winter, from November to March, can be quite severe, and the north is very wet. Summer is hottest below sea level (up to 40 degrees Celsius in Eilat), although
it can still get quite cold at night in desert areas. In spring, strong winds can push the temperature up dramatically.
When to Go
Climate shouldn't be a major factor in your choice of when to go to Israel - whatever time of year it is, some part of the country is
always pleasant. You might want to avoid major Jewish holidays, as the country fills up with pilgrims, accommodation prices go up and it's almost impossible to
travel between cities.
Facts for the Traveller
Visas:
Unless you are a citizen of an African or Central American country, India, Singapore or some ex-Soviet republics, you do not need a visa to enter Israel. Most tourists are allowed a three-month stay, but those entering overland from Egypt or Jordan may only be granted one month. If you do not have a return ticket and money to cover your stay, you may be put on the next flight home. The main hassle with visiting Israel is avoiding having your passport stamped - most Arab countries will not allow you to enter if you have visited Israel. If you can, get officials to stamp your entry permit rather than your passport.
Health risks: No particular risks, but you should consider vaccinations for hepatitis, typhoid, polio and tetanus and diptheria.
Time:
GMT/UTC plus two hours
Electricity: 220V, 50 Hz
Weights & measures: Metric
Money & Costs
Currency: New Israeli Shekel (NIS)
Relative costs:
- Budget meal: US$2-3
- Restaurant meal: US$10-16
- Budget room: US$7-10
- Mid-range hotel: US$50-60
You can bring as much foreign and local currency
as you've got into Israel, which is lucky because you're going to need it. Israel is pricey, but you will get what you pay for. If you're on a tight budget you
can get a pretty good dorm bed for $7 upwards. If you want a double room with it's own bathroom, you'll be looking at around $50. Food is the real budget
breaker - although it's possible to live on three felafel rolls a day for about $2, realistically you'll need $10-16 if you're ever going to get a break from
street food. For $25-30 you should be able to get decent accommodation, eat well and travel around, but if you want to drink, go to museums or take a tour that
will quickly blow out.
Up-market spots will be just as happy to take US dollars as NIS, and if you pay this way you'll save yourself 17%
VAT. However, if you're frequenting the lower end of the market, you'll need shekels. US dollars are the easiest to change, and anywhere will change them, but
most other currencies as well as travellers' cheques are also widely accepted. Israelis are renowned for living on credit, and most places will take your
plastic. ATMs are also widespread, and the majority of them take international credit cards.
The tipping culture has hit Israel with a
vengeance, and you'll be expected to give at least 15% whether it's been earned or not. Hospitality workers are paid a pittance - keep it in mind when you're
wondering whether to shell out those extra shekels. Although there's a value added tax on most goods, you should be able to get a refund if you can face up to
the hideously bureaucratic procedure involved.
ATTRACTIONS IN ISRAEL 
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